Paula Nabais, researcher and lecturer at the Department of Conservation and Restoration at NOVA FCT, and integrated member of the Associated Laboratory for Green Chemistry (LAQV), has been awarded a prestigious ERC Starting Grant worth €1.49 million to lead the SCARLET project — a five-year investigation that bridges science, history, and sustainability to address the environmental challenges of the textile industry.
SCARLET focuses on the study and recovery of historical dyeing techniques used between the 15th and 18th centuries. Drawing on recipes from the Iberian Peninsula, Italy, England, and France, the project aims to reinterpret traditional practices — particularly the use of natural dyes — to develop sustainable solutions for contemporary textile production.
“This study recovers and values past knowledge on natural dyes used in historical textiles. By bringing together science, history, and art, the project opens new perspectives on our cultural heritage while offering sustainable solutions for the future of the textile community,” explains Paula Nabais.
A key outcome of the project will be the creation of a digital platform that makes these historical recipes accessible and applicable to modern methods, empowering textile professionals — from companies to artists — to explore the potential of natural dyes and traditional techniques.
In Portugal, the project will focus on the application of colour to three types of Portuguese wool — Merino, Bordaleira, and Churra — aiming to promote the value of this national resource and contribute to the revitalisation of the local textile sector.
SCARLET directly addresses the European Union’s Sustainable Development Goals, offering natural alternatives that can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of textile production.
This is Paula Nabais’s first ERC Grant. She is a former student of NOVA FCT, where she completed her undergraduate, master’s, and doctoral studies in Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage. The ERC Starting Grants support early-career researchers with innovative projects and are funded by the European Commission through the European Research Council.